Dexterious Mixing & Wistful Relaxation: Tales Of The Cocktail 2010 - Feature - Part III

Finding the balance of history and personality is always a way spirits keep their vision alive. The same is true of any city moving to show its diversity. The swath of Bourbon Street knows its ideal but moving between streets debates change.Tales Of The Cocktail is inherently New Orleans because of its basis of hard work and humor-filled play which is reflected within the professional seminar structure but also in the creative filled intensity of John Besh as evidenced by his steakhouse within the enticingly located Harrahs New Orleans. Understanding the history of the cocktail implementation and what is to come helps to focus the appreciation of its present day creativity"Gin & Prohibition", the first of the historical-based professional seminars at TOTC, used this basis of humor as an understatement of the actual marketing method used to keep the spirit in business. As explained by the ever entertaining Simon Ford of Beefeater, gin had its origins as a health element but "was never meant to relax a muscle". Its essential basis in doing so was to make it cheaper than beer especially when the law came tumbling down. It became a #1 seller during Prohibition strictly because of the medicinal properties associated with one of its main ingredients: juniper berries which allowed for an overlooking of its otherwise "evil" textures. Ford relates that the consensus was that the drinks became slightly more complex during the Prohibition period simply because the exoticism of European cocktails became more a reminder of "freer internments" which is made literal with the serving of "Satan's Kiss" which combined Grand Mariner and Beefeater into a fizz based concoction which, while pop-oriented, ultimately comes across as underwhelming."Rum Running: Contraband, Customs & Taxes", as a secondary seminar progression, allowed for real world integration in practical terms between the exploits of Ed Hamilton of Ministry Of Rum and Steve Romsberg, a prolific local NOLA rum collector. Hamilton begins with the essential geography to the understanding of rum running especially in structure of the United States. Ultimately rum, especially before and during Prohibition, was very low on the totem pole with a higher structure permeating to the carriage crowd who specifically frequented whiskey and cognac more as a matter of taste. The key point of call, which Al Capone knew the importance of, was a small cluster of islands off the coast of Newfoundland which ultimately were given to the French as a consolation prize after they lost most of Canada. The most important island, St. Pierre Nicolum, served as a base of call. Having visited the island and perused its manifests hidden in the back room of an old bar owner, Hamilton related the front of "an auto dealership that was 4 miles long" which demonstrates the upfront chicanery of the entire operation.Hamilton goes on to describe his own experience of rum running when he disappeared into the Carribean in the mid 70s after helping design ships in Taiwan and Indonesia where the smuggling trade begat the listener. He arrived to work on Carebra which was a resort island at times right next to St. Thomas. In irony, a local rum bottle on St. Thomas cost $1.99 while a similar bottle on Carebra cost $9. The key for him was moving it to Puerto Rico for the flight home to the US and through the Virgin Islands to make his profit. This influx revolves greatly in the humor of the served cocktail "Twelve Mile Limit" signifying the onset of international waters combining 8-year dark rum, brandy and rye with a splash of pomegranate juice.Romsberg revolved the conversation back through New Orleans showcasing bottles of 150 proof rum that circulated the islands before adhering to what he considers an exceptional drink book that was out of print but now has found new favor. "The Fine Art Of Mixing Drinks" by David Emery, he quotes, dictates that back in the interim days of rum running, the spirit of rum itself, the author describes, "was practically useless for cocktails" and that for sailors "it was swallowed in one gulp, you shuddered and felt bettter". The bastardizing of the Rum Runner cocktail revolves around the recent tropical permutation seen heavily in Islamorada in the Florida Keys where the blended element has overtaken its more primitive based-shaken roots. The new flavor cocktail attempted at the seminar mixed rum with lime juice, blackberry brandy, creme de banana and pomegranate syrup which while tasty doesn't create the right punch.In bringing this historical structure up to date, one cannot mention current New Orleans cuisine without speaking on John Besh whose restaurants populate the town.Within the confines of the Harrahs New Orleans Resort & Casino, away from the bustle of gambling floor, nestles Besh Steak, a sequestered and moody antecedent that perfectly balances artisan specifics from its proprietor's sister restaurant August close by,Even though filets abound within the venue, lying on spreads of vegetables and potatoes, the essence of seafood primarily wisked through the mind, especially with the current crisis expanding from the oil spill lurking just offshore.With cocktails being ever present, the inset of the correct starter drink beamed essential. With the basic concoctions slightly banal but acceptable with mainstream dining, the challenge became to push the bartender with a balance between spicy and sweet with the delectable bite. The bartender verifiably worked the angle creating a mojito mix cocktail but paradoxically encompassing Patron and simple syrup with a mash of jalapenos and cilantro that burned the tongue but smoothly disappeared.Using this spicy perception as a balance for the starters revolved around one signature dish and an employee favorite.The stuffed shells, enraptured in a lemon fondue and filled to the brim with crab meat, literally foamed with flavors giving an intensity of taste without being too filling while the barbecue shrimp emblazoned in thick sauce understood that the love of bread with the sauce means not only being liberal with dipping but also with a mixing of tastes.Leading into the main course, the inclusion of a corn and crab bisque in a brief but intense cup smoothed the progression as a dollop of cream balanced attention to detail with a love of the hearty.As a distinct main dish, the Louisiana Redfish, grilled on the skin, was absolutely delectable both in its preparation and follow through simply because, while encrusted with numerous herbs and spices, it never overcame the vivacity of its almost ceviche based toppings mixing crawfish, shrimps and salads with an effervescent cream sauce lurking on the side. The gentle effortlessness of the entree respected in the realization of how hard it is to cook something this good.While the espresso could barely contain the satisfied digestion, the angel devil concoction desert from Besh's private family recipe proved exceptionally rich almost to a fault. Witnessing some patrons arriving just for dessert distinctifies this edge.In terms of a central location instinctual to this year's Tales Of The Cocktail, the main tower of Harrahs, separated quietly from the rest of the casino property, understands the need of peace and comfort.The suites, nestled with sunken tubs, slick red and white cool design and vivid views of the Warehouse District offer easy access to both the Bourbon Street activities and the Warehouse VIP parties whether transportation made itself available or not.The rarified relaxation needed within an event such as TOTC makes receding from full-blown networking mode at Harrahs for a reset that much easier than say Astor Plaza, which although directly in the Hotel Monteleone line-of-fire, meant downtime was a little more avoidable.Tales Of The Cocktail functions as a great event but, in understanding the history of the spirits arena and of the current possibilities in New Orleans, this annual ritual reflects new ideas and intent in observing that tradition is essential in maintaining the culture and expanding evolution in the world of spirits.