Visionary Tastes & Prixe Selects: Palm Springs Restaurant Weeks 2010 Preview - Feature
Food in the desert tastes different. The dryness tends to imbue the flavors as the moisture has its ways with the seasons. The undeniable truth reflects within both certain meat and fish dishes and their ability to withstand changes in both seasoning and tenderness. All this reflects within the looming persistence of Palm Springs Restaurant Week which encompasses over 80 dining experience in intimate vastness of the sprawling wind mecca.
Enveloping one in the experience always depends on the solidity of base camp. As a rule of thumb, the famous uber-cool Riviera Resort & Spa, late of the 50s Sinatra, knows how to make the smoothness move. The key is a sense of privacy, attentiveness and sheer relaxation in its ability to be timeless.
Whether entering into the slick but ultimately vibrant rooms or the vivacious pool area where the music subtly rocks without overcoming the guests while work or play occupy the senses, the Riv knows the scores and competes to win without breaking a sweat at all.In terms of restaurant choices, the highlight rests in a balance between trendy sophistication and a comfortability level and taste factor that truly draws the stomach in.The two most effective restaurants straddled the center divider between heartiness and distinctive emphasis on both fulfilling temptation and creating subtle contentment.Trio, complemented in orange and soft hues, understands its identity of being both eccentric but delightful. The floating jellyfish countenance of the overhead lamp brought many different dishes included as possibilities of Restaurant Week crossing the gamut with many specific ideals. Starting off was just a matter of will.
Spirits always pontificate the ideal though they fall outside the prixe fix menu. Starting with Rori's Tiki Monkey, the St. Germain and silken vision of Creme De Noyaux created wanton breaths but it was the Palm Springs Punch with Coruba Spiced Rum and Triple Sec that emcompassed the table in passable rapture as the entrees began.
The introductions of the pre-dinner salad elevated itself in the tart essence of the beet salad, which, while biting overemphasized the greens. The asparagus salad, by comparison, had a much more equated style draped in blue cheese crumbles and a sprinkling of vinaigrette.
On the main menu, the pan seared scallops initiated the will in tandem with a pork chop serenaded in tangerine/horseradish marmalade but it was the Australian Sea Bass, oven roasted with breadcrumbs and ensconced in lemon zest that took the breath away.
On the vegetarian angle within the situation (which is always of ample interest) the balance of a spinach ravioli, smooth in its cheese filled countenance, with a hearty and heavenly three cheese macaroni aptly set the stage off court.
Desert always becomes the wearer. The balance of a devilish mousse intention and a motivate cheesecake motif however powerful could not overcome the power of the Trio Nut Torte, twirled in a shattering caramel drizzle.On the other side of the powerhouse duo sits The Chophouse. The outside desert air permeates against a simple but elegant seating arrangement percolating the needs of the guests with a moment's hesitation.
As with Trio, the spirits set the structure in simple balance. Original Sin, permeating in Green Apple Vodka with the requisite Apple Pucker, smoothes generously with a lone cherry floating in the wilderness.
The dinner entrees envision as part of the Prixe offer effective and overwhelming proportions. The blue crab stuffed shrimp mingled in ectasy with the creamy au gratin potatoes and a tender and flavorful Kobe flat iron steak. Sidling in progression, the Scottish salmon wrapped in a mustard honey glaze twirled in an orange Thai curry sauce, only outdone by an amazing spinach flan that literally melted in the mouth.
Rounding out the structure was the combination of macadamian encrusted mahi mahi which soared within its paradoxical accompainment, a hearty porterhouse that demanded attention in specific bursts.While these two restaurants offered the pinnacle of the abilities of Restaurant Week, the extensive venue possibilities point to different visceral element able as a variety of different visions.
On the most extreme and strategic destinations is at the Peaks At The Summit accessible only by the Aerial Tramway, overlooking the Coachella Valley at nearly 9000 feet.
Not to be undone through the intensity of midday, spirits work well in tandem especially in lunch form. The Mountain Gust, specially created for the venue, mixing Absolut Citron, grenadine and pomegranate, envisions the smooth without the after-bite.
The pre-fixe lunch elements balanced between effective and staggered. The andoille sausage stuffed mushrooms had the necessary viscosity but suffered from a persistant dryness while the Caesar Salad enticed with its generous grated cheese and a lone anchovy, alone in its placement but the perfect antecedent.
As the main course, the chicken, glazed with a lemon thyme sauce over gnocchi potatoes and single stalk of broccolicini satisfied but it was the macadamian encrusted rack of lamb with its mushroom glaze and crunchy countenance that topped the experience.
Desert in the scenario became an enlightened progression. Chocolate mousse and ice cream prevailed. However, it was the singular and simple Berries & Cream layered with the prevalence of Grand Mariner that settled the vision, allowing for the soaring incentive as the winds above on the overlook bristle the hair.
The Purple Palm Restaurant & Bar, by comparison, at the Colony Palms Hotel, understands the essential of cool in the same iteration of Riviera. Hiding in plain sight is the biggest aphrodesiac, especially when the pool and the bar connect as one.
Spirits continue to be the functionality of any great Palm Springs evening, as long as moderation is the concept. The cool refreshing morality of a Lavender Mojito swims the eyes within the beauty of its thin mint stalks which enhance the sugar flavor. In balance, the Purple Lemonade popped with its raspberry enhanced beauty floating through the sunset.
Tapas is reflected as the name of the game, which is possibly included with the prixe thought pattern. The working ideal which will simply dazzle in terms of simple execution is the roasted dates surrounded in bacon. It is completely tempting yet completely worth it since it never stops with one. The ahi tuna crisps listing with an almost ceviche-like persistence gave way to risotto filled tastes but the intention of the dates was quite overwhelming.
Wangs In The Desert, by comparison, seemed unbalanced in its progression. While its inference of multiple cold sakes definitively showed an intensity of liquid vision, the inclusion of wonton starters and beef skewers were inefficiently vague in their taste and need, despite an adequately created ambience.
Zin, by definition, serves the after dinner perspective with gusto despite eliminating a perception of the prixe menu. The gentle Alvaer 2005 Mortilla Morines offered a gentle progression into the tart cheesecake and flaky bread pudding while a gentle but virulent violet sorbet angled the end.
Not to be forgotten, the Riv's own Circa 59, well regarded and utterly stylish as black and red chandeliers tower in the privacy enhanced booths, knows its dexterity in and out as starters of oysters marinated with dijon over cucumber and proscuitto dance in sauce as tender pork slides on the tongue with lingering flavor. Jaqk Cellars, which made a splash at El Paseo Fashion Week, provides the balance with its irrevocable and comforting Soldier Of Fortune vintage.The morning also requires renaissance especially when the looming wind of the desert beats with a strong heart. Ace Hotel Palm Springs, known for its trendy and laid back style, like a party cousin to the Riv, offers the old school coolness of the King's Highway Diner for its breakfast indulgence.
From the pablono cheddar grits, creamy in their follow through, balanced with chilquilas wrapped in the spicy embrace of chorizo to the comforting coconut bread french toast draped in powdered sugar and dripping Vermont maple syrup, the vision was cast.Palm Springs continues to show its diversity and lithe presence of mind heightening its experience duringRestaurant Week. Consuming with the base of the Riviera Resort & Spa, the swath of different styles, tastes and venues open with fixed menus offers the local or nearby food conscious intensive (or partier) if you will to get a taste of the desert while not sacrificing the cool.