Flowing Greens & Spicy Playa: Golf & The Night On The Riviera Maya

The revolution of Mexico is ingrained in one's mind but its exploring and luxury spirit is still in force. Despite the swine flu drawback (which has been overwrought on many fronts), Mexico, specifically the Riviera Maya in the Playa Del Carmen area is vibrant and filled with wonderful deals and luxury in addition to just simple, slick and effective getaway fun, away from the spring break party motif of Cancun. Not to say that Cancun isn't fun but the Riviera is more refined and relaxed in its approach.Flying into Cancun is simply a hour and a half jump from Houston. Situated an hour south driving, the Riviera Maya is blessed with endless beaches and a plethora of hidden resorts and golf courses, with a variety of different difficulty levels to approximate the novice or experienced player.Arriving in the night at Playacar Palace, the open air lobby has the underpinings of a fun tropical resort. Sidling into the deluxe suite upstairs, there is a décor of smooth, almost Miami based elegance with silk white and marble finishes. The all-inclusive angle of the resorts translates into a room with a stocked bar of Dos Equis, Heineken and soda in addition to spicket dispensers of Glenlivet, Absolut and Don Quervo. Stepping out onto the balcony where the waves crash beneath, the lights of Cozumel across the bay twinkle in earnest.Inside as the plasma TV spun, the underlit countertops made the room glow like something out of a Kubrick film as the full size hot tub rumbled with its jets bubbling. With the jacuzzi only steps from the bed, the set up is perfectly suited for getaways, both naughty and nice.Two key enablers in terms of the resorts and their effectiveness is golf and spas which were specifically focused with each arena providing different challenges and obstacles. Golf first.The El Manglar, as a starting course, is effective in its essence. Using Par 3s as a standard with a limited amount of water traps allowed for more straight through play. Hole 3 began with a drop shot right from the edge of a trap. An iguana, a common sight in the fields of play here, eyes as a 4 shot to the hole missed a bogie. Hole 4, replete with sand traps, allowed a strong drive with a 9 wood to close on 5 strokes. Hole 6 created a highlight because of nice chip capability which transitions into a lazy slope with an intermediate green. Hole 7, by comparison, had a wind handicap which required a heavy drive against the grain. The green almost allowed a 40 yard sink because the slope runs the way it should and not in counter balance. Hole 10 visualized the transition to the back nine with a clear straightaway shot. Little but aerodynamic birds with red highlights and triangle tails gallop across the green on their two legs looking like little velociraptors stalking their prey.Hole 12 required some thought because the structure necessitates a volley over two sand traps but the rub is that the progression can be easily overshot. This makes it one of the more difficult holes on the course since there is a hidden water trap behind it which is not apparent even on the map until a ball goes missing. The key on this drive is accurate hits. Hole 15, by comparison, provides for a low and lazy al-lee-oop over the trees which lands directly on the green. Hole 18 ends the structure by allowing a blast-off drive to nowhere before the flag is seen. Angled strategy befits the end of this course.The Iberostar Playa Paraiso, by comparison, is a wonderful constructed golf course for intermediates but with a state of play that is utterly condusive to groups. The course can be played hard rules but is more apt with a sense of fun which is highlighted by its all-inclusive playability in terms of food and drinks for a price. Heading out, the first element seen was a very engaging and knowledgeable golf pro who recognized this tone. Secondly, the group ahead was made up of young, 30-something bachelors of which one was getting married the following day. The players on the course for the day were not tainted by hard rule egos but more a sense of enjoying the game. The course itself has expanse, having been constructed on the other side of the road across from the actual resort, which is splendid within the adults only area in its own right with an opulence that is both cool and transfixing. The holes in terms of play required jumping simply because of the course's popularity.Hole 2 has a driver rock jump which was made undeniably easier by the ultra pristine upkeep of the fairway. Hole 7, a Par 5, was exceptionally challenging due to its 56 foot increase in elevation on an incline to hit the green. Considering the landscaping was built up since the expanse on this part of the coast was originally flatland, the rub is that this is the longest green on the course. On top of this, off Hole 8, there is an underground cave system that used to play host to a winding river. Sequestered away in plain view, on a hidden tree off of Hole 7 as well, there are Mayan markers and a small piece of ruins that has been preserved. After a shot of whiskey overlooking the grounds from the VIP viewpoint used during the Riviera Maya Open, the progression to the back nine began as the history permeates this arena.Hole 10 required a very cinematic interim with a collapsed tree marking the right wing long sand trap on the straightaway. Hole 13 was blessed by its beautiful landscape and an up-and-over predilection necessitated by competing hill structured obstacles that made getting to the green a rolling quandry.By far, the most pro level course made for television interaction was the El Chameleon Golf Course at the Fairmont Mayakoba. Ranging with heavy water obstacles from condo bordering rivers to a Par 3 right on the edge of the beach, the course requires specific intensity. Hole 4 begins the progression with a trying water jump which requires a very organized and still shot. Sideswiping the ball too hard on the initial drive ends one up in the brush. Hole 5, by comparison, inflects two counteractive water traps that lull one into a false sense of security on the second shot. Hole 7 is the first of the oceanfront Par 3s which blinds as another iguana squints from aft of the sink spot. Hole 9, by comparison, is a long drive with deliberate intent which adds to the possibility of balls disappearing as if on cue.Hole 15 is worth the Par 3 simply for the panoramic ocean view while Hole 16 slices with a massive sandtrap that overwhelms if not hit with a slight of hand. Hole 17 offers the last obstacles with distinctive water handicaps but, if trajectory is controlled with finite precision, the playthrough is infinitely satisfying.Lastly, in the vision of the Playacar Golf Course which is integrated within the Palace Resort, the feeling is one of contentment and comfort as it in many ways is reminiscent of an American public course. The difficulty rests after the Mayan but is lower level than the Chameleon or Iberostar.The course, in terms of its playability, was run in reverse 18 with Hole 10 being shot first. Hole 11 requires a split shot curved around the bend because of a zig zag in the fairway. The iquanas are plentiful and look with inquisition but it was the wildlife crossing before a putt on the Hole 12 green which was the most peculiar and fascinating. With the body of a pig but furry and the head of a rodent, this animal, called a curtail (which is only found in this part of Central America) paused and looked back with a meek but skittish look before it disappeared into the bushes. This area is fairly residential which makes the inset of this animal all the more interesting.Heading through Hole 14, there is a long deceiving drive on a downhill slope that offers feedback if hit too hard. Hole 17 offers a Par 3 which is easily overshot if distracted by the ducks who oblongs the fleeting water trap on the left. Hole 18 reverses the mind set with a misdirected a play-through which tricks the player into a right bound shot when the reality is that it curves to the left. At the outset, a tricky alleeoop over a reservoir offers a satisfying conclusion.Resetting on the front 9, Hole 2 requires a hard hit with an almost lateral shot which can be a bit tricky while Hole 3's drive is almost like a jump kick. An iquana near the tee-off looks hungry especially when the food cart (inclusive for a fee) drops off a welcome ham sandwich and soda. Continuing with Hole 6, the long Par 5 requires a couple wood hits but sinks the birdie with sensitive ease while Hole 7 wrestles with wind that paradoxically reprimands a counter shot. Hole 9 offers a similar viciousness of spirit as does its brother on 18 with a direct shot that requires an island pop of power onto a green situated between two water traps.While spa and food require a different article perspective here, the essence of Playa del Carmen which serves as a willing and decisive backdrop for the essence of such a play requires further examination.Entering into the town at the burning point of twilight, the essence of the bars and shops along 5th Avenue are highlighted by the weekly art progressions envisioned on its streets. Like the vision of Garcia, a visionary seductive artist, based in Rosarito, a similar voice, Nancy Shuazer, who once lived in Austin, lives in loves teasing with bare backs twisted in red satin and mirror gazed reflections within her paintings.As a Corona is shared through the rhythm of the street, the waft of Lauro's tobacco tickles the nose with its regal aroma. Lighting a short cigar of Cuban seed freshly rolled the moment before, the thoughts are of bliss as the lighter jumps in flame from the girl's fingers.On a quiet street that holds the spark of later heat, Los Danzantes holds the element of dusk. Sitting in the second level above what can become a fiercely energetic open air club, the view upon the street as a red Cadillac filled with long legged bliss lets off its girls as the hostess, beautiful and unseen, watches with angled interest heightens the start. The blinking into night as the mescal bar across the street blazes up its neon reminds one of what Cuba might be today if it had not been struck down within its Communist grasp. There is so much potential in the mixing of genuine culture and a good time that one cannot be missed without the other.The dinner as the heat within the streets builds is one of new fusion as well as the inclusion of a new chef at Los Danzantes, newly placed from Cozumel from across the bay.After the kiss of a Lipstick shot mixing white tequila, Smirnoff and grenadine with a fuel shaped after-blast, a grand presentation of “festival capacccio” blended the aspects of conch, octopus and buce offered a wondrous feeling while sauteed tuna with a tart blend of ginger, onions and sauce simply lifted with its grandness.Next in tandem jumped a shrimp chipotle base ingrained with a viciously tangy black mara sauce (which my dinner companion from Mexico said reminded her of the kind her grandma used to make). As the creations continued in an almost apertif course, a salad brimming with blackberries and cherry tomatoes beautified with the charro-based pulpo charascado which felt like a thousand fig explosions rattling in concession through the taste buds with equal precision.The visionary masterpiece, as well as culinary, was the essence of a full grilled octopus. It just crisped with intentional viscosity, in a way that few things I have tasted have, as the lime cruise missile fully brings the thick intensity of the flavor into focus. It is truly an item not to be missed.After that, despite greatness, everything else essentially pales in comparison. The flank steak, grilled with fervor, balanced with the lisping tastiness of plantains sauteed in onions within the love of a Mescal Summer mixing the spirit with Midori, lemonade and Jager excited but seemed anti-climatic.As a shot of Moonbaca rising Smirnoff, lime and blue curacao quenched the evening, the leveling of the kiwi mousse erupting like a fire to the delight of a watching eye gave satisfaction to the vision of the night.Golf ruled the day but when the time came for culinary/culture doubleshots, the nights of Playa Del Carmen offered the lights for more to come.