Plethora Culinary & Structure Traversity: The Lexus Grand Tasting [Los Angeles Food & Wine Festival 2012] - Feature

The texture of the Lexus Grand Tasting atop Lot W in the LA Live complex as part of the 2012 Los Angeles Food & Wine Festival encapsulates the notions of a cross-section. However what it misses in structure in comparison to something like The Taste (at least within the function) is that while many of the artisans hail from California, the traverse of Los Angeles itself is only partially focused despite a plethora of culinary and vintner talent vital and able to the task.This initially resonates loudly with two of the chefs hailing from New York which feeds into the perhaps bi-coastal mentality sounding off first.Starting with the essence of greens, Nathan Eckhaus of South Gate envisioned a notion of a light salad of mint, chili and pancetta simply berated with a brisk sweetness while Michael Sinor of Lola intermingled with duck sliders that aimed with a chunky yet flavorful velocity.Returning with gusto to the Southland and flowing through with a sense of the local (yet private), William Bloxsom-Carter of The Playboy Mansion reflected with a gesture of tuna tartar on a crisp that soothed while still reflecting a bit of the wetness inherent.Flowing more through the streets as wine matriculates around them, Christopher Hora of Engine Co. No. 28 purveys a tendency of hamachi ceviche which, despite its integration of beet infusion, suffers from a resolution of dryness.Resorting to a more lush taste, Celestino Drago of Drago Centro (again like 28 in the heart of downtown), revolves his offering in an agnolotti pasta with a ravioli penchant and slices of mushroom truffles applied by the master himself.Keeping in close motivation, David LeFevre of M.B. Post in Manhattan Beach, further down the way, understands the balance of taste and portion as evidenced by his presentation of BBQ Moroccan lamb belly which was elevated by its thin and vivid sliced flakiness as well as its mango tart aftertaste.Moving away from Los Angeles in tangent, Peter Armellino of The Plumed Horse, out of San Jose, definitely creates a texture of balance, especially for its Michelin rating, shown in the lusciousness of their pork rib and its hefty resolve though the inclusion of pickled spring onion derails it slightly.Continuing in this vain, John Cox of Sierra Mar at the Post Ranch Inn in Big Sur offers simple yet flavorful preparation of "Lone Mountain Ranch" full-bred wagyu with a pickled melon rind that soothes yet doesn't overcome the palate.Circling back around to Los Angeles, Christopher Eddy and Mark Peel of Campanile blend the elegant and the craft to round up the festivities with a Skuna Bay salmon gravlax ruminating with excellence in its lemon and dill goat cheese flavor.Quick in its appraisal but effective, the Lexus Grand Tasting as part of the 2012 Los Angeles Food & Wine Festival leans heavily in the influx of wine which, at times, makes it interesting with locals in driving textures, but with its food offering brings the penchant more to Downtown LA while also highlighting destinations a bit north.