Gentle Grace, Rapturous Waters & Heated Nights: The Golden Vision Of Thailand - Feature - Part I
Thailand offers a different expression each time experienced simply for the essence of its people. The balance between luxury, adventure and spontaniety flitters through the mind in tandem. While the proclivity at times is to progress towards the beaches, the unlikely progression of the North provides some interesting parallels as the Golden Triangle looms with flavor.
Approaching the angle of Bangkok on a straightaway shot is preferable on all fronts. Normally for most airlines on Trans-Pacific flights, the requisite element is a stop over in Taiwan's Taipei Airport for a crew change. Cruising on Thai Airways direct on a 17 hour tick from LAX, the interrupted flow makes the arrival that much more instantaneous. Seated in Premium Economy, the legroom is ample allowing for an essence of relaxation. Power ports are practically placed for those in work mode.
Three servings of meals is enticed over the flight which on this leg took place completely in darkness. The first course encompassing dinner used the element of stir fried chicken with onions and steamed thai hom mali rice while the essence of a nip of Thai whiskey and beer available for no charge at this seat level quelled the thirst. After a balance of work and fitful sleep, the second serving in the form of breakfast played to the tier. One of the grand elements of Thailand is the fact that many items deemed lunch are ultimately served at breakfast which creates a melding of thought patterns. Here barbecued pork and chicken sausage with rice hit the spot on cue before engaging back off to dreamland. Right before landing in Bangkok nearly two days later on the world dial (because of the crossing of the international date line), a last serving of lunch mixing stir fried rice noodles and chicken provided a filling end to the ultimately quick feeling flight.
After a quick transfer morning flight to Chang Mai in the north from Bangkok, the warm welcome of the Shangri La Hotel offers a bit of resuscitation. Awaiting the beginning of the Yi Peng Night Festival replete with floating lanterns and fireworks, the coziness of the room illuminated by the included Wi-Fi while looking at the looming mountain above offered a sense of scale and tranquility.
Quickly escaping into the city to the Hong Tauw Inn, the beginning of the filling and ultimately spicy food became apparent. The Thai Milk Tea, long a favorite, refreshed with its spicy countenance while a Pad Thai mixing shrimp, egg and rice satisfied richly along with sauteed asparagus and crab cakes which affectionately here in the States is known as Thai Toast.
Ascending into the hills above Chang Rai, the temple of Wat Phra Thart towers in solitude atop Mount Doi Suthep watching over the land, the city but a speck below. The surrounding statues framed by a towering staircase that leads into nirvana on the scales of dragons ponders one to climb its heights with nary a breath to sustain.
As dogs of infinite calm lie almost guarding the treasures of soothing presence within, a line of bells rings in consecutive progression as one is led inside the golden palace, accessible only without shoes. After paying homage throughout, a silent moment in meditation in a quiet corridor of Buddha statues brings the chi into focus, ready for the inevitable challenges ahead.
After a balanced stop at the Shangri-La's Horizon Club for happy hour cocktails and conversation, a feast lay before those quested. As the glowing embers of rising lanterns began to fill the night sky, the open air seating of Baan Suan prepared one for the essence of green chiles, powerful in their vehemence. A spry egg and parsley meld offered no solace from the hot curry soup replete with shrimp while the marinated pork allowed a mellowness of flavor while still envisioning a summit yet to come. In parallel, stir fry noodles readily doused with green chiles chopped in earnest brought tears to the eyes because of their sheer power which no amount of water could decimate.
Early morning brought offerings as the giving of alms to the novice monk tribe became a ritual in penance. As the sunlight began to crest, the pilgrimage of this sect, enclothed in orange with heads shaven, walking down the mountain, met with homage from local people and tourists alike. Upon offering food and drink into round tins held by its members, blessings were given in low chants as the believing kneeled penitent, basking in the grace of these holy people.
Hunger permeated the aftermath of such penitent feeling with the Shangri-La's Kad Kafe, happy in its obligement. With a mixture of buns, congee, noodles serenaded with broccoli and ginger, rice and hash browns mixed with a helpful digestant of miso soup, the day was ready for action.
In advance of the anticipated Cooking School at the Four Seasons Chang Mai, a trek to the Pratu Market in the heart of the city applied focus with a diversity of meats, tastes and spices to assail the senses. After the both salty and sweet application of Thai donuts, an inference of Thai Milk Tea again soothed the soul. The meat market, apropos of cow intestines, pigs heads and liver gave way to more tandem seafaring creatures with squid, frogs, crabs and raw fish, all of which makes itself part of a very exceptional and exciting Thai cuisine. Of course, the chiles, red and burning, are the cornerstone of its culinary brevity as a spice stop near the exit verifies. An offering of strong hot chili sauce guaranteed to singe the tongue as well as a spice which offers both an effervescent mobilization of virility and the assuagement of hangovers thrills the adventurous.
At the Four Seasons Chang Mai, the jungled landscape of the property leads to a clearing where, up a series of steps, an open air cooking mecca replete with individual cooking stations waits for the so-inclined. Available to all by way of paid reservations, the school allows the ability to make some well known Thai dishes and soups with one's own hands. Led in earnest by the funny and exceptionally knowledgable Chef Pitok (aka Chef Tiger) who walked all the participants at his bar station through the introduction of new ingredients, the virulence of the different spices made the wanton progression of the seasonings all the more fun.
As a small nip of the infamous Tiger whiskey made a proponent of the cobra fermented treasures lurking behind the glass, the plethora of food created by the group simply astounded in its complexity and florid viscosity while still remaining fairly simple in its preparation. The skills of the indominitable Chef Tiger through his precise yet gentle instruction (especially involving a requisite egg net to surround Pad Thai which is more indicative of its traditional preparation than that seen in the States) shows a dedication to culture while still allowing the West to realize its potential.As the evening bloomed, the energy of Chang Mai spewed forth. Shopping stalls along Chang Klan Road, the essence of bargaining ranged in style. The ability to be able to walk away from a sale is the greatest bargaining tool with a shadow dragon lamp purchased in warrant for half its price. For the ladies, the lurid colors of pashminas and sarongs abound in vivid wonderment, limited only by the want of the customer.
As the love of shopping proceeded to an open air celebration, the Paradise Bar, a stalwart feeling the shrinking of a global economy, sits upon the ghost of a former beer garden. Pool shots stimulated over bottles of Singha brew and a tequila-infused temptress continued in earnest bombasted only by the exploding temptation of half sticks and blossoming fireworks launched from only a few feet away in honor of Yi Peng.
The flowing night after the close of the street fair congregated at a small food stand immersing one in the crunchy but plausible veins of crispy chicken and sticky rice. As the celebration wandered, The Kangaroo Bar, spilling forth with the vocal heaven of Led Zeppelin well past the witching hour, offered a respite of relaxation. A Chang Beer washed the worries away with echoes of laughter despite the shockwave of an all-too-enthusiastic Australian eager to explode one last party favor of fiery intent onto the street. The night plays all too quietly.
Embarking on a four-hour drive through winding roads towards the essence of the Golden Triangle, the emblems of the city fall away. On a wayward side shalom, the rejuvenating waters of a roadside hot spring allows for the tingling sensation of heat spewed forth from the Earth as the dipping of toes necessitates a burning that never felt so right. After settling onto cool ground, the enveloping coolness of coconut milk sipped from the vine gives prudence of character as red dragonflies buzz around with verve.
Lunch on the road not taken meandered towards a river overcome by flow sporting a deck connected by a suspension bridge of pine and steel. The continued predilection of Thai Milk Tea within the Charin Garden kept the soothed beast contained. Rice noodles danced with mushrooms and water chestnuts mixed with pepper chicken and garlic riched pieces of marinated catfish before an ending slice of honey banana pie riveted the taste buds to soar.Late afternoon gave way to the gothic magnificence of Wat Rong Khun, a white temple of lore, that raises from the grounds of the Ban with an utter intensity that gave credence to both modern and far ancient perceptions of mythology, religion and pop culture.
As the visitor enters watching the whiskey sacrificed to the red skulled spirit, the bridge of supposed purgatory leads over an outreached cacophany of wretched hands, one of which boasts a mouth of sharpened teeth ready for the endives of those that dare cross its path.
Leading up towards the hallowed temple, two gargoyles, one male, one female, welcome with a knowing grin of perception as clawed fingers bask the sides of the ascending steps.
Inside the hallowed ground, the painted mosaics make reference to apolocalyptic struggles using real world threats of nuclear and ballistic chemical weapon strikes interspersed with images of the World Trade Center wrapped in the tentacles of man-shaped monsters. Nearby in tandem, homages of lightsaber wielding Jedis dissident in battle with numerous machine attacks point to references of Neo and “The Matrix” in an almost prophetical potpourri of metaphor.
After this outpouring of inventive and bewildering imagery, the soothing peacefulness of the Antara Golden Triangle rushes everything anew. Entering into its torch lit atrium with lush chairs and crisp air, home is once again attained.The rooms highlighted by a massive and encompassing bath offers utter contentment made all the more instinctive by an array of wonderous spa elements including orange infused shampoo, honey conditioner and bath milk that simply stunned in its wonderment.
Outside, the balcony boasts a sitting bed as the jungle reaches far beyong towards the Mekong River and the Elephant Camp as the trumpeting of a young baby female breaks the silence in spurts of echoes.
The hazy briskness of the morning brings light to the outside beauty of the Sala Mae Nam Cafeoverlooking a rich valley as a watering diversity of bread, rice, marinated pork, pastries and vegetables provide sustenance for the day.
Arriving at the staging area of the Golden Triangle Elephant Camp only a cart ride away down the hill embankment is a thrilling reveal. The elephants trumpet in communication, standing at the ready as the morning lessons, both for human and beast, begin in earnest.
First in fairness a visit must be made to see the youngest member of the clan, Am, an 18-month old female, who is just about as cute as one can get for such a magnificent creature. Her want of bananas never waning, she is a natural with her peach fur raising in the sunlight as her playful demeanor shows itself.
In taking a picture close with this beautiful animal, your humble narrator receives a wet kiss of sorts which only increases the frivolity with the inclusion of a female companion who laughs in glee as the ticklish trunk of the resident mascot plays with her hair.The tricky part of driving an elephant is based in the perception that they don't stop on a dime but do respond well to commands. Four basic progressions cover the gamut. The first, “Bai” means go. “How” means stop. “Ben” coupled with the gentle nustling of the opposite ear is used for turning. “Toi” means to move backward.Now before any of this is placed in motion, one must first get on the elephant which is achieved through a variety of different means. Unlike a previous trip to Elephant Hills (read here), south of Phuket, where the elephants were always steered by the mahoots which are their handlers and companions, here at the Golden Triangle, you, the visitor, become, the Mahoot in Training. The elephant is to be ridden bareback with no fear.After learning the commands to make the elephant lie down, crouch its head and lift one up using its legs, the trust begins to be formed. Then like amateur drivers, the riders are taken with the help of ground based mahoots through a small obstacle course (not unlike the DMV) where the commands are repeated and verified with regular convenience. Then comes the real test.
Unlike the earlier Phuket experience, the elephant trek at Golden Triangle took in epic strides the effective definition of the term. Heading out from the camp, the caravan of animals made their journey towards the river, making time for various branch eating runs. There is an element primordial and essential in this experience, even as the whir of scooters scamper past and digital cameras flash. It feels real.
As the elephants make their way to the clearing along the nearby Ping River, they must traverse a set of stairs. The elephant that became my pillar of strength, Bal, a 31-year-old female, took careful but sure steps that angled us at odd degrees as one arched the back to stay astride. Then all that was left was water.Approaching the bank, the necessity was to get rid of all electronic objects because, make no mistake, you were going in. Embracing this fact with relish was the most natural thing to do. As the water rages past, the surefooted Bal plunged herself into the river with aplomb turning around alongside her fellow peers. The fun begins as she submerges and holding onto her ears, the ride is a matter of will. At the command of the accompanying mahoot, water is sprayed from the trunk drenching the rider completely with a sense of playfulness as the alien nature of the surroundings seems all too comforting.
Emerging from the milk of the river, the elephants make their way up an ascending path. The waiting luxury of the Antara looms majestically in the distance as the rooms above become clearer and clearer. Mixing a feeling of the subtle and the paradoxical, the elephants are brought straight along the path past the buildings to the valet drop off as if a normal occurrence, an odd setting indeed but completely compliable (since that is the point).
After this progression of endurance, sustenance is need and subsequently found less than five minutes away at the Golden Iyara where a Thai chicken cachatore, fried wontons and tanatlizing rice and pork mixed with fresh salsa satisfies with intention along with a cold Singha.
The befitting progression of the first half of the journey shows a perception of worlds defined between the essence of the maintained spirtualism and the very real majesty of the land while still maintaining a sense of fun and culture.Thailand is truly wonderful creature. But between its gentle wilds, the essence of real world commerce balances the tables between the life wanted and the life maintained as the country continues to evolve.